Ezra Harris

Tag: 3D Print

  • 3D Printing an RC Plane

    3D Printing an RC Plane

    I spent about three weeks working on 3D printing an RC plane. I had initially searched for a somewhat easy RC plane to print and assemble as I’ve never had any experience with RC vehicles in general. I eventually found a good model that was both free and looked simple enough for me to be able to print. The model I ended up with was the Piper J-3 Cub by 3DLabPrint; 3DLabPrint is a Czech Republic-based company that designs 3D printable RC plane models. They have a bunch of options to choose from when it comes to RC planes.

    It took me about three weeks from starting printing to assembling electronics and crashing flying; I went with Polymaker LW-PLA, as they had a summer sale when I purchased; you can get a roll of plastic (and support me) by clicking here.

    3DLabPrint recommends their plastic, but the shipping would have been pricey as they are located in an overseas country. But there is a difference between PolyLight (3DLabPrint brand) and PolyLite (Polymaker brand). Polymaker prefoams the material, which makes it easier to print as it has very similar properties to regular PLA, and thus, I was able to print it at my stock PLA slicer profile. 3DLabPrint’s LW-PLA is not prefoamed and requires more tuning to compensate for expansion and other variables when it comes to printing.

    For the first couple of parts I printed, I hadn’t gotten the printer’s slicing profile correctly; for example, I accidentally added two bottom layers and two top layers, which I don’t need for this model as specified in the instructions. 3DLabPrint provides extensive instructions on how to assemble and prep your printer before printing. But after some trial and error, I got the slicer settings down and printed the rest of the parts. It took me about a week to print and assemble all the details, but I didn’t purchase the electronics till later in the following weeks.

    In total, I spent about 68 hours of just printing. That also includes any mistake prints and or extra parts, or multiple of the same parts, and other materials printed like the landing gear and tires. All the pieces were printed on my heavily modded Ender 3; I believe a stock Ender 3 (or similar-priced printer) should be able to print this material just fine. I would advise printing in 1.15 extrusion multiplier (or flow) in your slicer and printing a bit lower temps, at about 195°C for the hotend.

    Close-up of Finished Part
    Ender 3 Printing Plane Parts
    Ender 3 Printing RC Plane

    If you don’t have a 3D printer, I recommend a Sovol SV06 for a cheap option or a Bambu Lab P1P if you want to go for a more quality and hassle-free brand.

    At first, I ordered the wrong parts; the ESC was made for drones and hadn’t come with a 5v line that was standard for RC planes. I returned it and got the correct one. (List of my configuration below)

    FLASH HOBBY D2830 Brushless Motor
    GoolRC Flysky FS-i6
    uxcell RC Propellers
    OVONIC 3s Lipo Battery
    30A RC Brushless Motor Electric Speed Controller
    4Pcs SG90 9g Micro Servos

    (affiliate links)

    The only problem now is that I have no idea how to fly an RC plane. I watched a couple of videos to check I got the directions right and propellor was working correctly, (thanks to the folks in PW3D’s discord channel, I could ask noobie questions and get informative answers.)

    I tried to fly and crashed it almost immediately, which I believe is due to user error and not a design flaw. At the moment, I need to repair it and attempt another take-off again. I can say I got it in the air (6-9 feet at least) with 75% throttle but had not correctly lowered the throttle, and it came straight down, cracking the wing assembly and a couple of other parts of the main body.

    Crashed RC Airplane

    Crashed on Aug 19th, 2023

    That’s been my experience so far on 3D printing an Airplane. If you have any questions or thoughts, leave them in the comments box below, and I’ll get back to you.

    *Disclaimer: Most products linked are affiliate links and will support me if purchased through them.

  • Using a DSLR Camera with Octolapse for Stunning 3D Printing Timelapses

    Using a DSLR Camera with Octolapse for Stunning 3D Printing Timelapses

    Recently I bought a used Canon SL1 camera; it’s an old but great camera to use as a webcam or any general-use camera taking. One benefit is that it works with a lot of software using the USB port to capture a live video feed from the camera. When using the USB port it does have a bit of delay between the camera and the live feed, but it isn’t super noticeable in recordings.

    I also discovered it works with Octolapse, a plugin for taking seamless-looking time-lapses of 3D prints. Following a tutorial by the creator of Octolapse (FormerLurker), I started setting up my camera with my Octoprint server.

    The tutorial starts with the initial installation of the main program to interface with the camera. gPhoto. gPhoto supports a wide range of cameras, including my camera, which can File transfer, live view, and capture photos or videos.

    What is gPhoto?

    gPhoto is a set of software applications and libraries for use in digital photography.

    gPhoto Wikipedia

    With the installation, I generally followed the provided steps. Updated any updates that my Ubuntu server needed, updated Octoprint. When installing gPhoto, I had to use the “alternative instructions” since I didn’t run my Octoprint server on a Raspberry Pi, the structure of Linux flavors and different device configurations can make it differentiate the process configuring scripts and general directory locations.

    Next is editing the “sudoers” file. It is similar to the standard setup, but instead of the regular path, I used the provided command to find the install directory where gPhoto was installed. I also used the output inside the line of code I needed to insert into the last line on the file.

    whereis gphoto2

output:

gphoto2: /usr/local/bin/gphoto2

    After that, I can test gPhoto with a snapshot command; surprisingly, it worked! I heard the audible click, and it saved a picture to my server. Once that is set up, the next step is to create a script for the plugin to run in Linux that holds a picture, deletes it from the original SD card, and saves it to where the snapshots need to be stored to later process the whole timelapse video.

    The script included with the tutorial works out of the box for me, thanks to FormerLurker’s documentation.

    After that, I add it to the plugin’s configuration. Which also went well. I continued the guide with “Configuring a DSLR camera,” After which I started a print, and the final result after rendering is below:

    Final result. (Actual quality of the printed cube was terrible due to a lack of tuning at the time)

    One issue after rendering, which I could only fix by uploading it to YouTube, was the encoding and format of the rendered video. VLC media player says its renders at 4K, meaning 4000 pixels across. For some reason, my computer could not play 4K in the regular Windows media player or even my other video players without rendering it at 1/16’s quality. This may be due to the lack of support in my computer’s GPU (Intel Arc A370M Laptop GPU), but I’m unsure. But I can change that in Octolapse’s settings when it renders the final video. The F-stop was also not set correctly, which I can adjust in the camera’s menu.

  • Tuning Acceleration on my 3D Printer

    Tuning Acceleration on my 3D Printer

    Yesterday I got my Printrbot Simple Metal plus running, I had gotten it previously running, but it had significant build issues, mainly with no ease of access of the motherboard, when I designed the adapter for the SKR 1.4 motherboard to fit into the old Printrbot motherboard slot, I had no way of accessing the SD card or the USB port without taking it out of the 3D printer. This time, I had a soldering iron, terminal crimps, extra wires, and most importantly, lots and lots of Zip Ties.

    Once built, I could get it up and running with Octoprint on my laptop server. Thanks to Paukstelis for the excellent Octoprint_deploy script, which makes it a breeze to set up multiple Octoprint instances, which shortened hours to only about 5 minutes of setup time.

    Then I PID tuned, which tunes the heater of the Bed and the Hotend, which tests to see how frequently the heater needs to start heating; for example, before a PID tune, the Bed would either heat over the mark with 63°, begin to cool down but then go below the mark by hitting 55°, then heating up too much. Back and forth, thus making an unstable temperature which can affect the print dramatically. By staying stable, you can see an example of before and after with the Octoprint temp graph:

    credit: u/copppypapper on Reddit.com

    Once PID was tuned, I test-printed a ghosting/ringing test cube model, which came back with this:

    test cube 1

    You can see the ringing from the “Y” letter by the bump around. And some lousy plastic trailing on the lines; I then decreased the acceleration, which is how fast it speeds up and slows down, which causes this foul ringing line around corners. And this was the second cube:

    Test Cube 2

    Unfortunately, I still had very similar results from the second cube after turning it down, there is a very slight difference, but the bump is still very much there. But after turning it down even more and slowing the print speeds. I got this result:

    test cube 3

    The third cube was a success. It had eliminated the ringing, with not even a bump before the letter. But at the cost of speed, which I can sacrifice for quality. There are also very inconsistent layer lines which you can see in the images,, which I am working to resolve to get a better, more consistent cube shape.

  • Upgrades for my Ender-3

    I finally got around to fixing and upgrading my Ender-3. I’ve had my Ender3 for almost 2 years now and have occasionally been upgrading when needed. Last year I made my best upgrade to the “silent board” TMC2208 stepper drivers. Which significantly silenced the noise of the printer when printing. As well as a BL touch which helps with bed leveling. (Read more about that process here)

    I hadn’t upgraded it much further than adding an Octoprint device (wireless control software for controlling and printing and a bunch of other features.) But I wanted to spend a bit more time working on the firmware and hardware because of several issues/features. One was a heating issue if I printed twice before it cooled down. Another major one was I needed to modify the firmware for PID Bed tuning (basically calibrating the temperature for my printer to know what the sweet spot is for keeping stable temperatures). I wanted to add “fast probing,” which made the bed leveling process much faster before it started printing, which I learned about thanks to Crosslink’s blog post.

    I moved my printer upstairs and closer to my desk for easy access and quick printing. As well as using an old laptop, I had to lie around for the Octoprint server and the laptop screen as a sort of 3D printer screen monitor. Which displays the webpage, where I can use the touchscreen to control and view information about the printer. Thanks to a nifty program called Ubuntu Frame, Ubuntu Frame uses the screen in “Kiosk mode,” which runs a website in a stripped-down version of chromium at bootup. Thanks to UI customizer, an Octoprint plugin, I could customize the home screen to look sleeker and in Dark mode, which made it easier for the eyes to see and navigate.

    (What’s dark mode? Click the icon below to see)

    I was also able to successfully program Marlin firmware for my printer with the features mentioned earlier. And ran the PID tuning. Another upgrade I wanted to make was to switch to Direct Drive. I had a direct drive setup from another project printer that I wasn’t using, and since in the future I wanted to run flexible plastics that would better run with Direct Drive, I decided I might as well install it at the same time.

    Took a couple of beauty shots with my brother Simeon’s camera while it was printing, and here’s the result:

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